Locals, expats, and clued-in visitors all flock to Haiya Restaurant for authentic Hainanese cooking, just like ma ma makes. Once a street stall, Haiya is now—by popular demand—a proper sit down spot. The island’s four famous dishes (Wenchang chicken, Jiaji duck, Dongshan lamb, and Hele crab) all make an appearance, but these classics can be on the subtle side (read: bland). Spice things up with ginger and garlic in a casserole or deep-fried calamari with punchy chili salt. You can’t go wrong with dishes of the native Li and Miao tribes that are a riot of indigenous wild herbs and mountain vegetables grown on the island. The stir-fried winged beans (called si jiao dou or “four-angled beans”) with minced pork and savory pickled Chinese olive greens pack a wonderfully waxy crunch. No matter what you choose, ask for a plate of coconut rice (grains steamed in an coconut shell) the moment you sit down as they often sell out.